From 1 September 2025, the European Union officially banned TPO (trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide), a chemical widely used to cure gel nail products under UV and LED lamps. Salons and brands in the EU may no longer sell, supply, or even use existing stock of products containing this ingredient.
While South Africa has not yet implemented a similar ban, the EU’s move is expected to ripple through local beauty imports, salon menus, pricing, and consumer choices.
What Changed in Europe?
TPO has now been added to the EU’s prohibited substances list (Annex II) under the Cosmetics Regulation, following its classification as a CMR 1B reproductive toxicant under EU chemicals law. This means the substance is recognised as potentially harmful to human reproductive health.
The ban was formalised in Commission Regulation (EU) 2025/877 (Omnibus VII) in May 2025, with the deadline of 1 September 2025 set as the date after which cosmetics containing TPO could no longer be sold, distributed, or used by professionals.
In other words, EU salons cannot continue to use old stock, and brands must reformulate their products to remain compliant.
Why Did the EU Ban TPO?
The decision reflects the EU’s precautionary principle: once an ingredient is classified as CMR 1A or 1B, it is automatically banned from cosmetics unless a rare exemption is granted. No exemption was allowed for TPO, and its classification as a reprotox triggered the outright prohibition.
Are Gel Nails Banned?
No — gel manicures themselves are not banned. The restriction applies only to products containing TPO.
Many brands are already shipping TPO-free gel systems, which still cure effectively under UV/LED lamps but use alternative photoinitiators. A commonly cited substitute is TPO-L (ethyl(2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl)phenylphosphinate), which meets EU requirements.
What About the UK and the US?
- United Kingdom: The ban does not yet apply, but trade sources anticipate the UK will align with EU standards by late 2026. Nail industry publications are already advising professionals to transition away from TPO-based products.
- United States: There is currently no federal ban on TPO, and many products still contain it. However, global brands are likely to reformulate for consistency across markets.
What Does This Mean for South Africa?
1. Imports and Wholesale
South African distributors of EU-produced gels will increasingly supply TPO-free formulas. This may lead to temporary shortages, reformulation notices, or price adjustments as supply chains shift.
2. Salons
If your salon uses EU brands, you will likely be transitioned to new TPO-free product lines. Those importing directly from the US or elsewhere should carefully check ingredient lists or safety data sheets (SDS) for TPO (CAS number 75980-60-8) and consider switching to EU-compliant alternatives.
3. South African Regulation
Local cosmetics are governed under the Foodstuffs, Cosmetics and Disinfectants Act (Act 54 of 1972) and monitored by the Department of Health/SAHPRA, with guidance from the Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association of South Africa (CTFA). There is no current ban on TPO in South Africa, but local regulation often follows international precedent.
4. Consumers
You don’t need to give up gel manicures. Simply ask your salon whether their products are TPO-free. Many brands already comply, and the shift is happening rapidly.
Practical Steps for South African Salons
- Inventory audit: Check ingredient lists or SDS for TPO. If found, prepare to phase it out.
- Talk to suppliers: Ask specifically for EU-compliant or TPO-free gels, and get updated curing guidelines as formulations may differ.
- Staff training: Emphasise proper curing, thin layers, and allergy-prevention techniques (avoiding skin contact, correct lamp usage).
- Client communication: Reassure clients with signage or notes like “We are TPO-free”. Transparency builds trust.
- Hygiene & safety: Maintain good ventilation, avoid gel contact with skin, and encourage clients to use SPF or protective gloves during UV curing.
Buyer’s Checklist (Salons & DIY Users)
✅ Look for: Labels such as “TPO-free”, “EU compliant”, or mention of alternatives like TPO-L.
❌ Avoid: Products that hide behind vague terms like “proprietary blend” without disclosing photoinitiators.
✈️ Travellers: If you’re taking gels to the EU, note that products containing TPO cannot legally be supplied or used there, even if purchased outside Europe.
The Bottom Line
Europe’s ban on TPO doesn’t spell the end of gel manicures — it’s a shift toward safer formulations. For South Africans, this means change is on the horizon: salons will need to keep pace with reformulated imports, and consumers may want to start asking the “TPO-free” question.
By preparing early, South Africa’s beauty industry can stay ahead of global regulatory trends while continuing to offer clients safe, long-lasting manicures.
FAQs
Not categorically. The EU is removing one specific ingredient (TPO) based on its hazard classification. Many safe, effective TPO-free formulas exist. Internal Market and SMEsReal Simple
Probably not—most brands are reformulating or already sell TPO-free lines. Ask your distributor for updated SKUs. Real Simple
There’s no SA notice at present. However, SA often aligns with global norms—watch industry guidance (CTFA/distributors) for updates. ctfa.co.za
“Do you use TPO-free gel?” and “Can I see the SDS/INCI?” A good salon won’t mind. Internal Market and SMEs
Sources
- EU Commission Q&A: Legal basis, scope, dates, no use of old stock. Internal Market and SMEs
- HPRA (Ireland) notice: Effective date and prohibition summary. HPRA
- EUR-Lex Reg. (EU) 2025/877: Official act adding TPO to Annex II. EUR-Lex
- Coslaw explainer: “Placing/making available” and professional use clarified. COSlaw
- Brand/industry notes on alternatives (e.g., TPO-L): eu.gelcare.com
- Mainstream coverage (context): Real SimplePeople.com
Be sure to read, Justice for Dundee Contractor Killed in Barbed Wire and Knife Attack, if you missed it.
